Garment



SephZ, 1947. J. CLYNE 2,426,818

GARMENT Filed- May 25, 1945 2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

INVENTOR JOJ'EPH ,a Y/VE ATTORNEYS Sept, 2, 3947.

J. CLYNE I 7 GARMENT Filed May 23, 1945 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR JOJ'EPH Cl- Y/VE Qzw. ATTORNEYJ 1 Patented Sept. 2, 1947 UNITED, STATES PATENT OFFICE 2,42as1e GARMENT Joseph Clyne, Bronx, N. Y.-

Application May 23, 1945,-Serial-No. 595,411,.

7 Claims.

My invention relates to improvements in garments and more particularly to an improved jacket construction in which the elements are combined in such a manner as to provide a normal fit for. the wearerand at the same time provide a construction which will permit free movement of the arms and body of the wearer.

When a person wearing a jacket of. common construction attempts to raise his arm, it is a common experience to find that the sleeve of the jacket places a strain on the upper arm muscle so that the wearer does not have free movement of his arm. Furthermore, it is a common experience to find that the wearer of an ordinary jacket cannot raise his arms without pulling the rest of his garment out of position, to either twist it around his body, or make it ride up. This is particularly true if the wearer of the garment is in a sitting position. In some cases, it is very difiicult for one in a sitting position to raise his arms when wearing a jacket of ordinary construction. The strains produced on the arm muscles under such conditions necessarily make the wearer of the garment uncomfortable and gives him the feeling that his arms are held down under tension.

The, primary object, therefore, of the present invention is to provide an improved garment construction which will overcome the diiiiculties and objections referred to above, and particularly to' 2 sleeve gore includesza pointed'extension which projects into the body of the garment at the armpit.

Instead" of" providing: a two-section sleeve, a

\ single-piece or combined sleeve may be provided difli'cult to make than the standard jacket, and

provide a jacket in which there is a minimum of restraint against free arm movement. 7

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved garment construction which permits raising of the wearers arms without strain on his arm muscles and without pulling the rest may bemanufacturedwithout additional cost to the wearer;

Other features, objects and advantages of the improved jacket construction of the present invention will be apparent to those skilled in the art from the following more detailed description taken in connection withthe accompanying drawings forming a part of this application.

In the drawings:

Fig. I is aview partly to one side, of a jacket constructed in accordance with the features of the present invention, illustrating the relationship between the sleeve and the body of the jacket with a sleevein raised position.

Fig. 2 isa view showing the front and back sections of the jacket, with the front section provided with a dart and, with a gore on each side of the-dart.

Fig. 3 is a view of the top and under sections of a two-piece sleeve in which each section is providedwith a compound gore or allowance of particular configuration.

Fig. 4- is a view of a one-piece sleeve provided with a special allowance adapted to occupy the armpit of the jacket.

ing to the armhole, an integral gore on each side Fig; 5 is a broken side view of a jacket showing the appearance of a jacket made with a onepiece sleeve as illustrated in Fig. 4.

Fi'g, 6i's' a view similar to that of Fi 3 representing a sleeve and'und'er sleeve in which the gore or allowance includes a substantial projection on the under sleeve.

Fig. 7 is a view of a two-piece sleeve showing a front and back sleeve construction including integral allowances or gores.

Fig. 8 is a View representing a combined under sleeve and top-sleeve including an integral allowance; or gore in accordance with the present invention. k

Fig. 9 is a view similar to that of Fig. 1, partly to one side, of a jacket constructed in accordance with the features of the present invention and illustrating the appearance of the garment made with the body and the sleeve elements shown in Figs. 10 and 11.

Fig. 10 is a view similar to that of Fig. 2, showing front and back sections of a garment in which the front section is provided with a special dart construction.

Fig. 11 is a view similar to that of Fig. 3, showing a top sleeve and under sleeve containing integral allowances, that for the under sleeve having a special projecting section.

Fig. 12 is a view showing a combined under sleeve and top sleeve provided with ,a special shaped gore or allowance similar to that shown in Fig. 11.

Referring to Fig. l of the drawings, this figure shows a jacket constructed of suitable fabric in accordance with the present invention, from front and back body sections similar to those shown in Fig. 2 but having a standard armhole, and under and top sleeve sections patterned the same as those shown in Fig. 3. In Fig. l the jacket comprises a front section 10 attached to a back section l2 by means of a seam I4 which extends to the armpit. The front section i includes a dart 16 which also extends'to the armpit. The two back sections of course are attached to each other by a seam in'the backof the jacket. The sleeves of the jacket shown in Fig. l comprise an under-sleevesection [8 of the same pattern asthat shown in Fig. 3. and a top sleeve section 20 of the same pattern as that shown in Fig. 3. These sleeve sections are attached to each other by a front seam 22 and a back seam, not shown, the front seam substantially matching the position'ofthe dart 16. The sleeve is attached to the armhole section of the front and back sections of the garment by means of a seam 24. The jacket of Fig. 1 includes the usual collar and pockets, as indicated, which may be of any desired style.

The under sleeve section 18 of the jacket, as shown in Fig. 3, differs substantially from the standard sleeve pattern at the armhole section of the sleeve, the shape of the standard sleeve pattern where it-diifers from the sleeve section l8 being indicated by adotted line 25. Therefore, according to the present. invention, the under sleeve section 18 includes at the armhole additional material or a compound gore or'allowance integral with the sleeve section and comprising a crescent-shaped gore 2B which is enlarged toward the armpit section of the sleeve and which includes an integral tail piece or extension 39 comprising a gore extending substantially along the front edge of the under sleeve section.

The top sleeve section 20 as shown in Fig. 3 also differs from the standardpattern which is indicated by the dotted line 32. This section of the sleeve therefore includes a substantial allowance at the armpit and along the lower edge of the sleeve section which is integral with the material of the sleeve. This allowance or compound gore is a double wing-shaped section, one wing of which, 34, extends from the front edge of the sleeve along the armpit section, while the other wing, 35, extends along-the front edged, the sleeve from the armpit section.

In making up the sleeve of the jacket shown in Fig. 1 from the sleeve sections I8 and 20 shown in Fig. 3, edge 36 is attached to edge 38 by means of a seam to form the seam 22 shown in Fig. 1, while an edge 40 of the under sleeve section i8 is attached to the edge 42 of section 20 by means of a seam. When the sleeve sections [8 and 25 are sewed together, the tail or wing allowance 36 is sewed to the wing allowance 35, and the ends of the allowances 23 and 34 are also sewed together since they comprise a portion of the edges 36 and 38. The allowances and serve to provide a sleeve having an armpit section which is slightly larger than the standard sleeve, but the allowances 28 and 34 provide a sleeve which gives the wearer freedom to swing his arms and raise them in any position without having his arm muscles placed under any sleeve strain or tension. The illustration in Fig. 1 shows the appearance of the sleeve in raised position when the sleeve sections include the allowances shown and described in detail in connection with Fig. 3 of the drawings.

. Fig. 2 of the drawings show the structure of the back and front sections of a preferred form of jacket made in accordance with the present invention, the back section M being the same as the standard pattern, and including only a relatively small portion of the armhole at 46. The front 48 of the jacket has a pattern of the form shown-in Fig. 2 and includes the edges 59 which form a dart which extends into the armhole portion of the jacket. The front also includes a fitting dart 52 in front of the dart edges 50, the edges of both of which are sewed together in completing the dart. The front section 48 in other respects differs substantially from the standard pattern by providing underarm allowances or gores 54 and 55, on opposite sides of the dart 50. Each of these allowances 54 and 55 comprises a substantially triangular-shaped section extending beyond the edge of the armhole of the standard pattern, as indicated by the dotted lines 58 and 60. While the allowance 56 is shown as triangular, the allowance 54 is a four-sided irregular polygon in which the top edge is intended to match the upper sloping edge of the allowance 55 when the edges 50 are'sewed together.

In making a jacket having front and back sections as shown in Fig. 2, and sleeve sections as shown in Fig. 3, the sleeve section may be joined dart 52 is also sewed up while any buttonholes or buttons or other fastening means are provided on the front section 48 adjacent the edge 66. It will be understood that for each jacket two front and two back sections are provided and that the two back sections will be joined by sewing along the edge 58. After the seleeve shown in Fig. 3 has been assembled as described above, it is sewed into the armhole after the top shoulder seam of the jacket body is made, in the usual manner. A jacket made from material cut in the manner shown in Figs. 2 and 3 has the general appearance of the jacket shown in Fig. 5 in which the effect of the underarm allowances 54 and 55 is readily apparent.

By combining the allowances 28, 30, 34 and 35 with the allowances 54 and 55, a combined sleeve and body structure is provided which gives unusual freedom for the movement of the wearers arms. The arm may be raised freely without pulling the body and jacket up and without binding the arm muscles, and particularly the upper arm and shoulder muscles used in raising; the:

arms. Furthermore, the adjacent: body and arm construction provides: a jacket having. a. very neatappearance; There is nobagginess or 'ap-.

parent extra .ful'lnesswhich' would detract :fromr.

the style andaappearanceoi the. jacket... The-sizes of the. armholev structure. is. notwmaterially en:- largedaoverthat or a'j acleet: made from a standard pattern, so thatv this feature, taken in.conjunction with: alcombinationxof the particular shaped goreszor allowances. provide; a very effective and. practical jacket construction;

ashows: asingle-piece sleeve it: whichzmay be. employed in placeiof the two-piece sleeve cone structionv shown in.I. ig:.. in; making-. as jacket either. of the 'form; shown. in-Fig: 1. or'of; the form shown inv Fig; 5. A preferred construction for using the single-piece sleeve is. the combinatiomof this sleeve-withthe body sections .44? and iii-as shownin Fig. 2; This condoination produces a jacket having substantially the appearance-of. the; jacket shown in Fig. 5.

The. sing-le pi ece sleeve- T16," differs-.- fromthe standard single-piece.- sleeveupattern by the complex allowance H, betweencthe dotted lin i2, representing: the. shape of the standard; sleeve pattern where it. differsfromthe sleeve ill, and. the line 14 representing the upper edge of the. allowance H; The complexallowance '5 lbetween theselinesisrgenerally' theshape of a crescent with: ascalloped:lower-edge sothat: the line, 12 is of substantiallydifierent shape from the-line 14.

In making up a jacket-with: the sleeve-Hi,- the body sections i t-and soarecombined as. described above, while-edges 16- and 7810f. the sleevev 'H)" are sewedtogether to complete the sleeve,

which is .then-set-inthe armhole provided by the sewing upof theback-andfront sections 44- and 48 In. the finished jacket, the allowance H is combined directly with the gores tit-and 56 to provide a jacket construction: having a form very similar to that shown in Fig.5. The sleeve i0 is set in the armhole-with the gores Stand 56, pointing directlyinto approximately the. center of the allowance. 7 t.. The seam formed byjoining the edges 16 and 1B..wil1.be substantially atv the upper back portion of the sleeve.

Thesingle-piece-sleeve il may also be. used in a jacket body of a standardpattern.suchasshown in Fig. I. that shown in Fig.1. because it-willnot include the .gores 3D and of Fig. 3 and will not.- include the seam 22. While the cuff portion of the sleeve. shown in Fig. 3 differs fromthatin Fig. 4, this is a matter of style, not comprising the feature of thepresent invention.

The sleeve construction shown in Fig. 6..in.-

eludes an. under sleeve Shanda slecveor top...

sleeve 82 which difiers from thev sleeve construction shown in Fig. 3 by including a projection 84 onthe allowance of the under sleeve. In this figure, as in Fig. 3, the dotted lines represent the extent of the standard patterns. This sleeve construction may be. combined with. standard body units to make a garment of the styleshown in Fig. 1 of the drawings.

Fig. I shows a two-piece sleeveconstructionineluding a front sleeve 86 and aback sleeve 88, in which the dotted lines represent. the extent. of

the standard patterns. When this sleeve. is sewed up andv combined. with. standard body sections such as .shown in Fig. l, a style. isproduced hav-- ing the general. appearance of. that. showninFig. 1. In. combining .the-.sle.eve, sections tee-and- 88,

However, the sleeve willdiiier from.

arm; section of the garment.

piece sleeve of thistype, the searnformedby the:

aeaas st ed es. 9d and 921 are sewed togetherandedgeslld and 9.6: are sewed to each. other. Thesl'eeve: is

then. combined with the standard body sections;

of the garment. with the: allowances at theunder In: sewing. a'two.-.

edge 95 and 95 will be at the top of the sleeve. The sleeve sections 86' 88" shown in Fig. 7 have special.shapedrelatively large allowances; 98 and Hit; the latter having a doubl'e'wi'ng construction similar to thatofthe allowance 3'4 in Fig.3, but. also. having n upper edge which extends toa substantial point. not: included :in allowance. as.

The allowance 9% issubstantially like a. single extended wing shape in which'the upper portion in cludes an indented section, ora projection-en tending to the edge-9d.

Fig. 8.: shows a sleeve. H32? comprising a combination of an under and. top sleeve, in which the dotted line represents the outline ofthe standard sleeve pattern Where it differs from that of'ithe-s sleeve i821; This sleeve lliz'may becombinedwith the body elements M and 248. shown in Fig. 2, or

with standard bodyelements to produce a style similar to that. shown in Fig. l. The sleeve H12 includes a substantially symmetrical generally:

Mi l" having an. en-- larged central body section and sidesectionscrescent-shaped allowance which terminate substantially ata. point, The use of this. sleeve provides. a: garmentin which there is only one. seam in the sleeve-and in which:

and sleeve sections. of the construction shown. in:

Figs. 1.1 and. 12. The jacket shown in Fig. 9:comprises a front section H36 which has a backsec tion Hi8 shown in Fig. 19. The front section lotincludes a: dart Hi formed by cutting upper pertions ill (Fig. 10.) from the sides of the dartof the standard pattern. as. indicated by thedotted 1 lines. representing the upper: edges of the standard.

dart. The sleeve. of the garment: shownin-Fig. 9 includes. an under sleeve H2 and; atopsleeve I M which are sewedtogether as: indicated; the under sleeve having a substantial allowancelit which includes an integral extension?! itrprojected into the dart Hi]; and sewedtherein; asuclearly indicated in Fi 9; This figure therefore shows the general style and free arm movement eifectpr0- duced by combining. the body sections. Hi5 and 808' with the sleeve sections. H2 and. IIGJ, shown.

in Figs. 10 and'll,

The allowance HE is integralwith the under sleeve H2, and it, with the extension l 58, pro.-

vides an unusual shaped allowance comprising.

three somewhat similar shaped projections forming a shape bounded substantially by a convex; line and two concave lines, the latter of which.

substantially bounds the extension. H8. The. extension or projection M8 on the under-sleeve H2- as shown in pattern form in Fig. 11, is a steeply tapering projectionof substantial-length extend.-

ing from the end of the sleeve. The sides of the projection l l8 diverge slightly toward'the end of the body of the under sleeve to form asteep slope. Each side edge makes an abrupt turnof about: into the end edge sections of the under sleeve. The extension or projection H8 is approximately in the middle of the end of the under sleeve 1 l2. and the left edge of the projection is somewhat longer than the right edge and merges. abruptly:

into the end edge of the sleeve, the latter being sewed to the front lower oval edge of the armhole of the garment. The top sleeve H4 includes an allowance I20 along the upper right side which tapers from a point along the sleeve seam line to approximately the middle of the top sleeve section.

The edge of the top sleeve I I4 which is sewed onto the top oval edge of the armhole of the garment is of generally convex shape in which the curve of the convex edge is of only small amplitude, as shown in pattern form in Fig. 11. This slight convex edge is the result of providing the extra material I20. When the top sleeve us is sewed into the garment, the convex edge of low amplitude automatically provides for more than the normal material at the front arm section of the garment above the seam line between the sleeve sections H2 and I14, as shown in Fig. 9. This materially aids in conjunction with the structure of the under arm sleeve to give increased freedom of arm movement without binding the top muscles of the arm when it is raised. In this connection it will be noted that the end edge section of the sleeve I I2 at the left of the projection I I8 is only slightly lower than the edge on the opposite side of the projection and that therefore when the under sleeve is sewed into the armhole of the garment the extra material H6 is automatically provided because of the positioning caused by the upper right hand corner of the under sleeve I I 2.

Instead of using the two-piece sleeve sections of Fig. 11 in producing a garment of the styleshown in Fig. 9, a combined under sleeve and top sleeve I 22, as shown in Fig. 12, may be used. This combined sleeve is somewhat similar to that shown in Fig. 8 except that the allowance I24 includes an extension I26 similar in shape to the extension allowance I I8 shown in Fig. 11. The allowance I24 and the extension I26 are integral with each other and integral with the body of the sleeve I22. These allowances form a crescentshaped allowance in which the concave edge has a substantial extension. This allowance has a shape like the head of a miners pick. In making a garment such as shown in Fig. 9, the edges of the sleeve I22 are sewed together and the sleeve sewed to the body portions I and I08 of Fig. 10 with the extension I26 extending into the dart I Ill.

The single-piece sleeve I22 in Fig. 12, has a top edge portion which is sewed to the edge of the armhole including the V-shaped opening in the bottom of the armhole into which the extension or projection I26 is sewed. The one-piece sleeve I22, in pattern form as shown in Fig. 12, has an upper edge which generally combines a general concave curve at the left with a general convex curve at the right, both of low amplitude. These curves or curve sections are of approximately equal length. The extension I26, however, breaks the concave curve and projects directly from approximately its low point so that the sloping side edges of the extension form angles of less than 90 with the respective portions of the concave curve. The sloping edges of the extension I26 diverge only slightly toward the main body of the sleeve to provide a steep slope. The left edge of the extension I26 is somewhat longer, but only slightly longer than the right edge, so that the results pointed out above in connection with the structure shown in Fig. 11, are achieved.

The sleeves of Figs. 11 and 12 may be combined in a slightly different manner with the body elements of Fig. 10, if desired, to produce a style quite similar to that shown in Fig. 9, by sewing up the dart H0 and fastening the projections H3 or I26 in the underarm seam between the body sections I08 and I06. This change will slightly rotate the sleeve but produce substantially the same appearance and will stil1 provide the necessary allowance for permitting the free upswing of the arm. The extension allowances I I8 and I26 are unruflied in any way, and provide a smooth insert either in the dart H0 or in the underarm side seam of the garment.

The improved jacket construction of the present invention results from a combination of relatively simple structural features which give the jacket a sleeve and armpit structure permitting free movement of the wearers arms without distorting the jacket and without binding the arm muscles. A wearer of the jacket of the present invention may raise his arms in any position without breaking the sleeve or pulling the body of the jacket out of its normal position. From the foregoing description, it will be apparent that certain variations may be made in the structure of the jacket and still achieve the objects of the invention. Such changes are contemplated as coming within the spirit and scope of the invention.

While the invention has been illustrated in connection with a jacket construction, it is to be understood that the invention may be applied to the making of other garments, such as ladies waists, mens shirts, and other garments.

What is claimed as new is:

1. A one-piece sleeve section, for use in forming a sleeved garment, adapted to extend under the arm and of sufficient width to extend to each side of the armpit section of the garment, said section having an integral tapering projection extending from an intermediate part of one end thereof, said projection having its tapering side edges converging outwardly at a relatively small angle to one another, each outwardly tapering edge of the projection turning abruptly into the adjacent edge of said end of said section, said tapering projection being adapted to be sewed into a generally V-shaped opening extending from the armhole of the garment.

2. In a garment, a body portion, and a sleeve having an underarm portion and an overarm portion, said underarm portion extending to each edge of the armpit section of the sleeve and having an integral taperin projection extending from an intermediate part of the end thereof which is attached to the body of the garment, the side edges of said tapering projection converging away from said underarm portion at a relatively small angle to one another, said tapering projection being sewed into a generally V-shaped opening extending from the armhole of the garment, and each tapering edge of said rojection turning abruptly into the adjacent edge of the end of the said underarm portion.

3. A one-piece sleeve section, for use in forming a sleeved garment, having an underarm portion of sufiicient width to extend to each side of the armpit section of the garment, said underarm portion having an integral tapering projection extending from an intermediate part of one end thereof, said projection having its tapering side edges converging outwardly at a relatively small angle angle to one another, each outwardly tapering edge of said projection turning abruptly into the adjacent edge of said end of said underarm portion at an angle of less than said projection being adapted to be sewed into a generally V-shaped opening extending from the armhole of the garment.

4. A sleeved garment having a body including front and back sections secured together by a shoulder seam and forming and defining an armhole having a lower portion with a sharp, deep, generally V-shaped opening extending therefrom downwardly into the garment, and a sleeve sewed into the armpit section of the garment and including a portion extending under the armhole and to each side of the armpit section, said portion having an integral tapering projection extending from an intermediate part of the end thereof which i sewed into the armpit section of the garment, the side edges of said projection converging downwardly at a relatively small angle to one another and being sewed into said generally V-shaped opening, and each outwardly tapering edge of the projection turning abruptly into I the adjacent edge of the end of said sleeve section, the armpit section of the sleeve including a substantial allowance of material in addition to that of the projection and that of a standard sleeve, whereby a garment is provided which permits free arm movement without distorting the position of the garment on the wearer and without binding the arm muscles of the wearer.

5. A sleeved garment having a body including front and back sections secured together by a shoulder seam and forming and defining an armhole having a substantially oval upper portion, the body portion adjacent the lower portion of the armhole having a sharp, deep, generally V- shaped opening extending from the armhole downwardly into the garment, and a sleeve sewed into the armpit section of the garment and including an underarm portion and an overarm portion, said underarm portion extending to each side of the armpit section, aid underarm portion having an integral tapering projection extending from an intermediate part of the end thereof which is sewed into the armpit section of the garment, the side edges of said projection converging downwardly at a relatively small angle to one another, the side edges of said tapering projection being sewed into said generally V-shaped opening, and each outwardly tapering edge of the projection turning abruptly into the adjacent edge of the end of said sleeve section at an angle of about 90.

6. A sleeved garment having a body including front and back sectionssecured together by a shoulder seam and forming and defining an armhole having a lower portion with a sharp, deep, generally V-shaped opening extending therefrom downwardly into the garment, and a one-piece sleeve sewed into the armpit section of the garment and including a, portion extending under the armhole and to each side of the armpit section, said portion having an integral tapering projection extending from an intermediate part of the end thereof which is sewed into the armpit section of the garment, the side edges of said projection converging downwardly at a relatively small angle to one another and being sewed into said generally V-shaped opening, and each outwardly tapering edge of the projection turning abruptly into the adjacent edge of said portion of the sleeve section at an angle of less than the end of the sleeve, in pattern form, on the opposite side of its longitudinal center from the portion having the said tapering section, comprising a gentle convex curve fitting the upper portion of the armhole of the garment.

7. In a sleeved garment having a body including front and back sections secured together by a shoulder seam and forming and defining an armhole having a substantially oval upper portion and an oval lower portion having a sharp, deep, enerally V-shaped, opening extending therefrom into the body portion of the garment, a one-piece sleeve sewed into the armpit section and including an underarm portion extending to each side of the armpit section, said underarm portion having an integral tapering projection extending from the end of said underarm portion which is sewed into the armpit section, said projection having its tapering side edges converging away from said end of the underarm portion and sewed to the edges of the body of the garment defining said V-shaped opening, said sleeve, in pattern form, having the end edge which is joined to the body of the garment combining a concave curve for the underarm portion with a convex curve for the top arm portion, said projection extending from approximately the middle lower portion of the concave curve, the respective side edges of said projection merging into the concave curve at angles of less than 90, said convex and concave curves being of relatively low amplitude.

' JOSEPH CLYNE.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,900,391 Slanger Mar. 7, 1933 1,986,217 Pilla Jan. 1, 1935 1,965,995 Tripp July 10, 1934 829,029 McLoughlin Aug. 21, 1906 1,623,781 Dalkner Apr. 5, 1927 2,305,406 Clyne et al. Dec. 15, 1942 2,309,037 Berman Jan. 19, 1943 2,291,025 Casella July 28, 1942 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 394,321 I Great Britain June 16, 1933 

